This week, let’s take a different approach and talk about things to plant now and through the late fall to get a jump on the spring harvest or even harvest in the summer.
The timing of these plantings is going to vary by the region you garden in but the concepts are the same. Plant something now and let it get well-rooted, allow it to go dormant, then as the daylength increases in the spring watch it bounce back up with growth as soon as the conditions are right with no effort on our part in the spring.
This does a couple of things for us: allows us to put our early spring gardening hours elsewhere, often toward crops that need a little extra effort anyway, and gives us an even earlier harvest than we would typically see if we usually need to wait for the ground to thaw or warm up before working in our garden beds. Many of these things are particularly important for those of us in temperate or cold-weather climates but gardeners in warmer zones can take advantage of this, too, depending on the crop.
On today’s episode of Just Grow Something we’ll talk garlic, onions, root veggies, sprouting broccoli or broccoli raab, cold-hardy greens, and more that you can set and forget for a harvest next year. Let’s dig in!
Resources and References:
Ep. 67 - When and How to Plant Your Garlic, Plus Tips for Warmer Climates
Ep. 114 - Planting Onions to Overwinter
Ep. 118 - Cover Crops in the Home Garden
Untreated Onion Sets | Sprout Mountain Farms
Soil Temparature Maps | GreenCast
Truly Garden Cover Crop Seed Mix
Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group
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This is positively farming media.
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Last week we talked about the different crops that we can
00:00:07
plant now in each zone to be harvesting throughout the
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winter. This week, let's take a
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different approach and talk about things to plant now and
00:00:15
through the late fall to get a jump on the spring harvest or
00:00:19
even harvest in the summer. The timing of these plantings is
00:00:22
going to vary by the region that you garden in, but the concepts
00:00:26
are the same. Plant something now and let it
00:00:28
get well rooted. Allow it to go dormant.
00:00:31
Then as the day length increases in the spring, watch it bounce
00:00:36
back up with growth as soon as the conditions are right.
00:00:39
With no effort on our part in the spring.
00:00:42
This does a couple of things for us.
00:00:44
Allows us to put our early spring gardening hours
00:00:46
elsewhere, often towards crops that need a little extra effort
00:00:50
anyway, and gives us an even earlier harvest than we would
00:00:54
typically see if we usually need to wait for the ground to thaw
00:00:57
or at least warm up before working in our garden beds.
00:01:01
Many of these things are particularly important for those
00:01:04
of us in temperate or cold weather climates, but gardeners
00:01:07
in warmer zones can take advantage of this too, depending
00:01:10
on the crop. On today's episode of Just Grow
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Something, we'll talk garlic, onions, root veggies, sprouting,
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broccoli, or broccoli. Rob cold Hardy greens and more
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that you can set and forget for a harvest next year.
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Let's dig in. Hey, I'm Karen and I started
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gardening 18 years ago in a small corner of my suburban
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backyard when we moved to A5 acre Homestead.
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I expanded that garden to half an acre and I found such joy and
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purpose in feeding my family and friends.
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This newfound love for digging in the dirt and providing for
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others prompted my husband and I to grow our small homestead into
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a 40 acre market farm. When I went back to school to
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get my degree in horticulture, I discovered there is so much
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power in food and I want to share everything I've learned
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with as many people as possible. On this podcast we explore crop
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information, soil health, pests and diseases, plant nutrition,
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our own nutrition, and so much more in the world of food and
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gardening. So grab your garden journal and
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a cup of coffee and get ready to just grow something.
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So if you hear background noise, that is because my office door
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is wide open and you would be hearing rain.
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We have had a pretty much steady drizzle here all day, which I am
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so thankful for. We have been bone dry and stupid
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hot and honestly, if we hadn't gotten this rain today I would
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have lost every single one of my pepper plants.
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They even though they're loaded with fruit, they're they weren't
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ready to harvest and there was so little moisture in there.
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What I did harvest last week, the the side walls were actually
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collapsing in because there was so little moisture.
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So thankful for the rain today. And so I'm just gonna go ahead
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and leave that window open or that door open.
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Actually the windows and the doors are both open and if you
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hear the rain, then you hear the rain.
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That's OK, so let's talk fall crops to overwinter for a spring
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harvest. The first thing that most
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gardeners think of when we talk about planting in the fall for
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spring or summer is garlic. I will link to the full garlic
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episode in the show description, but let's do a quick overview of
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what garlic needs and how and when we should be planting it
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depending on our growing conditions.
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So there are two different types of garlic.
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There's hard neck and soft neck. The most obvious difference
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between these two is their appearance.
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So the hard neck garlic varieties are going to have that
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long flowering stem that grows through the center of the bulb
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that's called escape. And then the bulb surrounding
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the scape of a hard neck variety has a single layer of those
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consistently shaped cloves, and usually they have between 4:00
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and 12:00 depending on the cultivar.
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The soft neck varieties, on the other hand, they have a much
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larger number of cloves, and this is because usually the soft
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neck varieties are not uniform in shape and they are formed in
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two or more layers in the bulb, and each of those is wrapped in
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their own skin. So you're going to get between 8
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and 20 cloves per garlic. That's one way to tell the
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difference between the hard neck and the soft neck.
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The other one is that the soft necks don't usually produce
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escape, which is likely why they produce more cloves in each
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bulb. That's kind of an evolutionary
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tactic for reproduction, which is great for us, but do know
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that in times of environmental stress I have had soft neck
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varieties actually produce escape and subsequently those
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have had smaller bulbs. Generally speaking, hard neck
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varieties are going to tend to grow better in areas with colder
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winters. They require a greater period of
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vernalization than the soft neck cultivars.
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So that vernalization is that amount of cold, the cold period
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where the plants not only go dormant, but they have to be
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exposed to a certain number of days below a certain temperature
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or they're just not going to produce properly.
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So in garlic, if it's not cold enough for long enough for the
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hard neck garlic, it means fewer cloves or none at all.
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So This is why it's recommended that you plant your garlic in
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the fall and then you harvest it the next spring.
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Soft knit varieties don't require as much vernalization.
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They tend to perform OK in areas where the winters are mild.
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Where we are in zone 6A, we can grow both the hard neck and the
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soft neck. I usually do grow both just to
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kind of cover my bases a little bit.
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The soft neck tend to have much more heft to them, but the hard
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neck have a stronger flavor. But sometimes we have a really
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mild winter and the hard neck just doesn't do very well.
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So I always have the soft neck available to make sure that I'm
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getting garlic. Plus, if you want to make garlic
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braids soft, neck are the ones that you want to go for now.
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You're going to find a lot of suggestions online about when
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you should plant your garlic, but just remember that this is
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going to depend on your particular gardening
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environment, so don't blindly follow a specific date just
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based on your growing zone. Cold temperatures are what
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prompt the garlic clove to start growing its roots.
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So if you plant too early and the soil temperature is still
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too warm, that garlic clove is just going to sit in the ground
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and it's not going to be growing its roots, which means it's
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going to be much more susceptible to disease or to
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fungus. And if you have any rains that
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saturate the soil during that time, there's no roots to take
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that water up. So essentially, those cloves are
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just sitting in water and they're going to rot right there
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in the ground. Plus, our weather patterns
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change from year to year, so don't decide that you're going
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to plant them at the same time this year as you did last year,
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because the conditions this year may be drastically different.
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Of course, you do want to plant your clothes before the ground
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freezes. You want to give it adequate
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time for that root development before the soil gets too cold.
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I use an online soil temperature map.
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I've told you about this before. I'll link to it in the show
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description. I use that to determine what my
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soil temperature is from week to week, and to look at previous
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year's data just so I can kind of forecast when might be a good
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time to plant based on those kind of historical conditions.
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Once it's consistently staying below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or
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15 1/2 Celsius for your soil temperatures, you're pretty
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safe. I try to look at the
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temperatures that are like below 55 Fahrenheit or 12.8 Celsius,
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just to be on the safe side, because here we have such wide
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swings of temperatures that can last a week or even longer
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sometimes, and that causes the soil temperatures to warm back
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up again. Now obviously you can just go
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out there and use a soil thermometer to keep track of
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your daily soil temperatures, which I do do once I've decided
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on a planting date, and then I go out and verify that soil
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temperature a day or two ahead of time to be sure.
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But using the online tool is an easy way to check when I'm too
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busy to be going out at 10:00 AM every day to check my soil
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temperatures. So all that to say, just don't
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blindly follow a chart that you find that tells you when to
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plant. I am going to give you some
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approximate planting dates by zone, but I would use these just
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as a guide for when you should have your garlic bed prepared
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and then go by the current year's weather conditions to
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make your final decision. OK.
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So like in zones one through three, you're looking at
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planting or having your garlic beds ready in early to
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mid-september Zones 3 through 5. We're looking at late September
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to early October. Zones 5 through 7.
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We're looking at mid to late October.
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Now I'm in six A like I mentioned and sometimes I don't
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put mine in until the first week in November because it's
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exceptionally warm some years. I think this year is not going
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to be much of an exception to that considering how warm it's
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been. But if we have some sort of a
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dramatic change between now and then, I will plant earlier.
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Typically mid-october is fine, but last year the soil
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temperature was still 65 Fahrenheit on October 24th, so I
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waited. So again, keep an eye on the
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average soil temperatures leading up to your predicted
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date and then test your temperatures for a couple of
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days before planting just to be on the safe side.
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And then zones 7 through 9, you're looking at late October
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into November and zones 9 and 10 late October into December.
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And you guys are going to need to make sure that you are
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selecting soft neck garlic types because they need less cold
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vernalization in order to be able to develop those bulbs.
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Hard neck varieties need four to six weeks of cold temperatures
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below 40 to 45 Fahrenheit in order to develop those bulbs.
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The soft net garlic isn't as picky, which is why they grow
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better in warmer temperatures. So on this week's episode of
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Focal Point Friday, I'm going to go ahead and recap some of the
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techniques that you, warmer climate growers can use to get
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your garlic prepared prior to planting to guarantee a harvest.
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So keep an ear out for that one on Friday.
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That's it in a nutshell. That is crop #1 garlic.
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Next on the list is one that certain climates can do well
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with without a lot of preparation and others of us
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need to put a little bit more effort into.
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And that is onions. Now usually we're talking about
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planting onions in the very early spring as soon as the soil
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can be worked. If you were in a warmer area,
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you can most certainly plant onions from seed or sets in the
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fall. And if you're in a colder
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climate, you can do this with extra protection over the
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plants. I generally recommend doing this
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from sets. I will link to the full onion
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episode in the show description, but when we're talking about
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fall planting I would highly recommend we're looking at
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choosing day neutral onions because they could adapt to the
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different day lengths and climates better and are more
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likely to fall to form those bulbs.
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Long day onions would be fine if you are in a northern growing
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area in the northern hemisphere, they're not going to start
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forming their bulbs until your day length gets to be at least
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14 hours per day, closer to 15, and that gives your soil a
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chance to warm up a little bit in the spring too.
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But for everybody else, I would really say day neutral is going
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to be your best bet for a fall planting.
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Now if you're in a warmer climate, you can direct sow your
00:11:36
onions from seed or you can plant onion sets.
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So remember the onion sets are just tiny little onions that
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have started to bulb a little bit and then they prematurely
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stop the growth so that we can plant them later.
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And then once they resume growth, they very quickly
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develop a full bulb. If they're in the right climate.
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This is a very easy alternative to seeds, but they aren't always
00:12:01
available in all areas. In the fall.
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I prefer these two seeds for a fall planting, but that's
00:12:07
because of my climate. If I lived somewhere with milder
00:12:10
winters then I might choose seeds.
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If you are one of those mild winter climates, then let the
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onions go ahead and grow throughout the winter.
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In colder regions you're going to need to protect them with
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mulch or row covers while they're dormant, and in very
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cold climates like you folks that solidly see frozen ground
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for several months, you're going to want to cover with very heavy
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mulch and then row covers and then likely some Caterpillar
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tunnels of like greenhouse plastic to be sure that the
00:12:40
bulbs don't get damaged. This is 1 crop that you may want
00:12:44
to skip if you are colder than a zone 5 or 4 unless you're sure
00:12:49
you can really protect those bulbs.
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Bulb onions are generally cold Hardy down to about 5 or 10
00:12:55
degrees Fahrenheit, so this should tell you how much
00:12:59
protection your bulbs will need through the winter and then help
00:13:01
you decide whether or not you want to tackle this one or not.
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In any case, once the day length increases and your temperatures
00:13:08
begin to warm in the spring, you're going to want to uncover
00:13:11
the plants and let them continue growing as usual.
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You will likely have a much earlier harvest this way, and
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often times you'll get larger onions.
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Just be aware that in some climates you're likely to lose a
00:13:23
few over the winter, and that's OK.
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I've been known to not cover them well enough and the freeze
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thaw cycle here caused a lot of them to rot, but when I do it
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right, it works out very well. Now, in cold areas, the onions
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need to be planted about four to six weeks before your ground
00:13:40
begins to freeze in order to be able to get them harvested as
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full size bulbs in the late spring or the early summer.
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This is why sets are a really good idea, because they get
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settled in and they get to start getting rooted before the ground
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gets too cold, kind of like garlic.
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Now if you're in a warmer area, seeds are just fine.
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I find that I can kind of skirt the edge of the frostate a
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little bit here, and my fall onion sets are actually on their
00:14:05
way to me now. I kind of got them ordered a
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little bit late, so I'll be getting them in at about the
00:14:10
four week mark, four weeks before our first anticipated
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frost. If you're further north than me,
00:14:15
then you really probably need to get a move on and get your sets
00:14:18
planted. And the benefits of planting now
00:14:21
rather than starting fresh in the spring while the ground is
00:14:23
still cold, is that these fall planted onions are already
00:14:26
established. So when they come out of
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dormancy, they'll have established root systems and
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those bulbs are already going to be developing, which means
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earlier harvest and then most times, like I said, bigger
00:14:36
onions. If you can't find onion sets
00:14:39
near you right now, I will link to Sprout Mountain Farms in the
00:14:43
show notes. Because that's who we got ours
00:14:45
from and I know they are still taking orders through like
00:14:48
November or whenever they run out.
00:14:53
Fall is the perfect time to start creating better soil and
00:14:57
increasing organic matter in our gardens for next season.
00:15:00
A great way to do this is with cover crops, and True Leaf
00:15:02
Market has an easy way for home gardeners to do that with their
00:15:06
garden cover crop seed mix. These cover crops are proven to
00:15:10
boost nitrogen content in the soil while improving weed
00:15:13
suppression, erosion control and soil structure.
00:15:16
Get your cover crop mix by going to
00:15:18
justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/cover and choose from 1/5 or £25 bags
00:15:25
depending on the size of your garden.
00:15:27
Just growsomethingpodcast.com/cover
00:15:30
to get the easiest assorted cover crop mix out there from
00:15:33
True Leaf Market. Next on our list is carrots and
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beets and even turnips and parsnips.
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You've heard me mention these before.
00:15:43
These are great candidates for overwintering and warmer
00:15:46
regions. This is likely the best time for
00:15:48
you to actively grow these crops, but in colder winter
00:15:52
areas, these are great for planting in the fall, allowing
00:15:55
them to get some growth on them, heavily mulching and protecting
00:15:59
them after you get a couple of frosts, and then allowing them
00:16:02
to resume growing again in the spring.
00:16:04
I had the best early crop of carrots this season, and those
00:16:08
were the ones I planted in November.
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Now that was actually too late for them to actually get any
00:16:15
growth on them. So I'm planting some earlier
00:16:18
this year to get them established so I can have an
00:16:21
even earlier crop. And then I'll do the November
00:16:24
planting again to get a slightly later crop and then a regular
00:16:27
spring planting for a third crop.
00:16:29
So for a crop that gets to start growing a little bit before
00:16:34
dormancy, you want to plan ahead and get them seeded, especially
00:16:38
for the carrots, a good four to six weeks before your first
00:16:42
frost because they can take a little while to germinate.
00:16:44
If that's already passed for you, then you have that other
00:16:48
option. So last November I direct seeded
00:16:52
my carrots after my soil had frozen solidly in my raised beds
00:16:57
and I kept the soil uncovered while we went through a couple
00:17:00
of freeze and thaw cycles. This is called frost seeding and
00:17:04
it uses the natural heaving of the soil during those freezes to
00:17:09
draw those seeds down into the soil when it thaws.
00:17:14
So then, once the seeds had worked their way naturally down
00:17:16
into the soil, I mulched them really heavily, and then I just
00:17:20
left them until spring. Once the soil began to warm up,
00:17:24
I pulled back the mulch just ever so gently to see if
00:17:27
anything was sprouting, and it was.
00:17:29
So I loosened the mulch up a little bit so that the seedlings
00:17:32
could breakthrough and then I just left them all alone.
00:17:35
Eventually those carrot tops started poking through and I had
00:17:40
a fantastic early harvest of carrots about 3 weeks earlier
00:17:45
than the spring planted ones I did in the next beds over.
00:17:50
I highly encourage this method, and I'm going to be doing that
00:17:52
with beets this fall as well. So if you can get them in early
00:17:57
enough in order to be able to get them established and a
00:17:59
little bit of growth on them before your frosts hit, great.
00:18:03
But if you've already passed that mark, don't fret.
00:18:05
You have that second option that I just described where you can
00:18:08
go ahead and do that frost seeding and still get a much
00:18:11
earlier harvest in the spring. The next crop to seed in fall
00:18:16
and harvest in spring is Hardy greens, so spinach, kale, and
00:18:20
collards are all really good options for overwintering.
00:18:23
For a spring harvest, this can be done in one of two ways.
00:18:27
Either we plant them early enough so that they get to
00:18:30
maturity before our first frost or before our Persephone period
00:18:34
kicks in, and then we can harvest from them for part of
00:18:37
the winter and then leave them to continue their growth in the
00:18:40
spring. Or we can plant them a little
00:18:43
bit later so that they get some growth on them but they aren't
00:18:46
fully mature. And then we'll cover them up
00:18:49
right after the first frost and just leave them alone until they
00:18:52
start regrowing in the spring and we can have our first
00:18:55
harvest then. Your approach on this is going
00:18:58
to depend on your climate. If you're in a warmer area, you
00:19:01
can actively be harvesting all winter long and then leave those
00:19:05
plants alone for a little bit at the beginning of the spring so
00:19:08
they can put on one more good flush of leaves for a final
00:19:12
harvest before it gets too warm and they want to bolt.
00:19:14
In colder climates, I like to have them get to maturity
00:19:19
harvest partway through the winter.
00:19:21
Cover them really well once it starts to get bitterly cold, and
00:19:25
then let them regrow in the spring while I plant a
00:19:29
successive crop right alongside them.
00:19:31
Now, if you're in a much colder region than I am, you're likely
00:19:34
going to want to get them growing and then cover them up
00:19:37
pretty early to protect them for spring growth.
00:19:40
And if your area stays relatively cool for most of the
00:19:44
growing season, you likely won't need a succession planting in
00:19:47
the spring because there's going to be less likely chance that
00:19:50
they're going to bolt early on you.
00:19:51
You might not need to plant another one until the late
00:19:54
summer. Now here's a bonus for you if
00:19:56
your winters are cold, but you can provide some crop
00:19:58
protection. This isn't really a green per
00:20:01
se, but you can plant rapini or broccoli, Rab or some sort of
00:20:06
heirloom sprouting broccoli type in the fall and harvest in the
00:20:11
early spring. You can sow the seeds two to
00:20:13
three weeks before the 1st fall frost, and when the seedlings
00:20:16
germinate, cover them with straw, mulch and in really cold
00:20:20
areas some frostcloth and those little green greenhouse tunnels.
00:20:23
The plants are going to survive the winter and then they're
00:20:25
going to begin growing again as the daylight hours lengthen and
00:20:29
they will be ready for a very early spring harvest.
00:20:32
Just make sure you do this in well drained soil to prevent
00:20:36
root rot while the plants are dormant.
00:20:38
This can actually be among one of the very first crops that you
00:20:42
harvest in the spring because warm temperatures are actually
00:20:45
going to cause those plants to bolt and send up those flower
00:20:48
stems. So that is one more thing that
00:20:50
we can plant in the colder regions and be able to harvest
00:20:53
first thing in the spring. And then finally, let's talk
00:20:57
about cover crops. This isn't necessarily something
00:21:00
we're going to plant and harvest to eat, but it is something that
00:21:04
we should be planting now to utilize through the winter and
00:21:07
into the spring to help our garden regain nutrients and
00:21:11
build a healthy soil. I did a cover crop episode
00:21:14
earlier this year and I'm going to do another one and again in a
00:21:17
few weeks, specifically about fall and winter cover crops,
00:21:20
because there are a lot of things that I didn't cover in
00:21:22
that first episode. But in general, having a cover
00:21:26
crop in place over the winter is a fantastic way to not only
00:21:30
protect that topsoil from erosion because the crop acts
00:21:34
like a living mulch, but when we terminate that crop the
00:21:37
following spring, we leave that crop residue in the ground and
00:21:41
on top of the soil. So we're putting nutrients back
00:21:45
into the soil that was pulled out the previous growing season.
00:21:48
There are a whole host of benefits to these cover crops,
00:21:51
and now is the time that we want to be putting them in the
00:21:54
ground. So I did a spring crop and then
00:21:57
a summer crop in one of my fields that really needs some
00:22:00
help and now I'm ready to sew my fall planting of some dikon
00:22:04
radishes to leave throughout the winter.
00:22:06
So take a look at true Leafs selection of cover crop blends
00:22:10
from the link in the show notes. Their garden mix is a great
00:22:13
starting point for a fall cover crop without having to go down a
00:22:16
rabbit hole of research to figure out what to plant in your
00:22:19
area for the winter. Okay to recap things that are
00:22:27
great to plant in the fall for a spring or summer harvest.
00:22:31
Garlic, onions, carrots, beets and other root crops.
00:22:36
Hardy greens like spinach, kale and collards plus those bonus
00:22:40
sprouting broccoli or broccoli rob in some areas and cover
00:22:44
crops. The biggest benefit to all of
00:22:46
these, well, except maybe the cover crops, is that we often
00:22:50
have a little bit more time to attend to the garden in the late
00:22:54
fall when the summer crops have kind of given up but the soil is
00:22:57
still warm and workable. It gets those seeds or those
00:23:00
sets or those cloves or whatever it is that we're planting off
00:23:03
to. A really good start, and it
00:23:05
gives us more time in the spring to devote to the more time
00:23:09
sensitive crops or tasks that can't be completed right now.
00:23:14
In this way, we avoid some of the chaos of the spring rush by
00:23:18
already having some of our crops in place and ready to go ahead
00:23:22
of time. Listen, if you found value in
00:23:25
this episode, will you share it with a friend?
00:23:28
It's a great way to keep the podcast going, and it brings in
00:23:31
new sponsors to help offset the cost and the time of sharing all
00:23:34
this info. And it's absolutely free for you
00:23:37
to do so. I greatly appreciate those of
00:23:40
you who are sharing these episodes and putting them out on
00:23:43
social media too. It really does mean the world to
00:23:46
me. So thank you.
00:23:47
Thank you so much. Until next time, my gardening
00:23:50
friends. Keep on cultivating that dream
00:23:52
garden and we'll talk again soon.
00:23:55
You just finished another episode of the Just Grow
00:23:57
Something Podcast. For more information about
00:23:59
today's topic, go to justgrowsomethingpodcast.com
00:24:03
where you can find all the episodes, show notes, articles,
00:24:05
courses, newsletter, sign up and more.
00:24:08
I'd also love for you to head to Facebook and join our gardening
00:24:11
community in the Just Grow Something Gardening Friends
00:24:13
Facebook group for it to be able to do its root development.
00:24:17
The foil. The foil.
00:24:19
The foil. Now you do want to plant the
00:24:23
roots. No, they're not roots.
00:24:25
They're cloves. Until next time, my gardening
00:24:28
friends keep learning and keep growing.