Last week on the podcast we talked about which seeds we should be saving from the garden, how mature the fruits need to be when we harvest seeds and a bit about how to dry and test them. This week, we’re focusing on storing them properly.
When we get seeds from a catalog or other seed supplier, they’ve often gone through a set of steps that we may not be duplicating at home with our own saved seeds. Seed suppliers are required to test their seeds not just for germination percentage, but also for diseases and moisture content. These tests ensure that we’re not brining outside diseases into our gardens and make sure the seeds we get will maintain their integrity in storage without spoiling.
Today on Just Grow Something we’re going to talk about how we can achieve the same results in our own seed collection. If you garden where certain diseases are prevalent you certainly don’t want to saving that disease to plant again with your seeds the next year. We also want to be sure our seeds remain intact in storage and we don’t open up a fuzzy, moldy mess when it’s time to plant in the spring. Let’s dig in!
Question of the Month: What was your biggest success in the garden this season?
References and Resources: Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group
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Last week on the podcast, we talked about which seeds we
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should be saving from the garden, how mature the fruits
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need to be when we harvest those seeds, and a little bit about
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how to collect and test them. This week we're focusing on
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storing them properly, so when we get seeds from a catalogue or
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other seed suppliers, they've often gone through a series of
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steps that we may not be duplicating at home with our own
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saved seeds. Seed suppliers are required to
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test their seeds not just for germination percentage, but also
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for diseases and for moisture content.
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So these tests ensure that we're not bringing outside diseases
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into our gardens, and it makes sure that the seeds that we get
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will maintain their integrity and storage without spoiling.
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Today on Just Grow Something, we're going to talk about how we
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can achieve the same results in our own seed collection.
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If you garden where certain diseases are prevalent, you
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certainly don't want to be saving seeds and saving that
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disease to plant again with your seeds the next year.
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We also want to be sure that our seeds remain intact in storage
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and we don't open up a fuzzy, moldy mess when it's time to
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plant in the spring. Let's dig in.
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Hey, I'm Karen, I started gardening in a small corner of
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my suburban backyard and now 18 years later, I've got a degree
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in horticulture and operate a 40 acre market farm.
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I believe there is power in food and that everyone should know
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how to grow at least a little bit of their own.
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On this podcast, I share evidence based techniques to
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help you plant, grow, harvest and store all your family's
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favorites. Consider me your friend in the
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garden. So grab your garden journal and
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a cup of coffee and get ready to just grow something.
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So a quick reminder, if you've not already voted for me in the
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Women in Podcasting awards, could you please just take 5
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minutes out of your day to do that pretty please?
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The voting window closes on September 30th and I actually
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have some pretty stiff competition including a
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podcaster who also happens to be a broadcaster and her podcast is
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part of the Fox Broadcasting Network, so you know she has a
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huge audience to call upon to vote for her.
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So I am calling on you. Every vote helps and you can
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only vote once in each category. So I will leave a link to the
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voting in the episode description.
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Thank you in advance for your vote.
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I truly appreciate you. So let's talk about the best
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ways to dry our seeds for storage, and then talk about the
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techniques that we can use to kill off any diseases, and then
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finally how to store them properly.
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When we're talking about our typical garden plants, our
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fruits and vegetables, and many of our annual flowers, the seeds
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have to be dried to the point of being brittle before we store
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them. Even a small amount of excess
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moisture in a seed can cause that seed to rot or even to
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germinate and sprout in storage. Now, as a side note, there are
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some species, specifically a lot of the rainforest plants, whose
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seeds are what we call recalcitrant.
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Recalcitrant seeds actually are not supposed to be dried.
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They are unable to survive in the way that a seed with our
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traditional sort of dormancy can be.
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So those seeds actually cannot be allowed to dry out between
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when they're being planted or when they're being saved and
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when they're being planted and germinated.
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But our run-of-the-mill fruits and veggies and flowers
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absolutely need to be dried to be successfully stored away for
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the next season. The ideal level of moisture for
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a seed conditioned for storage is between 3 and 7%.
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And the corn is a little bit different.
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It's moisture content is closer to 15%, but it's the anomaly in
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this case in in some cases you actually are going to have a
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really difficult time getting your seeds below a 10% moisture
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content. And that could be for any number
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of reasons like you had a really rainy season or like me, you
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live in extremely humid conditions.
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So how do we dry those seeds to as much as possible to make sure
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that we are saving them successfully?
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Air drying is the most common method for home gardeners and
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the easiest and just the simplest, right?
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We just spread our seeds out on a paper towel and let them air
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dry to help with the circulation.
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We can put them up on a cooling rack like what we have in our
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kitchen just to get more air flow in and around the seeds and
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this is going to help them dry more quickly.
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And if you're drying a lot of seeds and you want to save some
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room, you can use stackable cooling racks.
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My daughter bought me a set one year for my birthday or
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Christmas or something and it actually comes in really in
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handy not just for holiday baking but also for drying out
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the seeds. You stack them just on top of
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each other and they still have a gap between them which allows
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for that air flow. You can have a fan or 2 in the
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room, but just make sure that you're not facing them directly
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at the seeds. You don't want them blowing
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around the room, but that's going to help to circulate the
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air. Just face them away from the
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seeds. Now you might be tempted to use
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like a food dehydrator or even your oven to dry the seeds, but
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I really don't. This is not a good idea.
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OK, this again. What we always say.
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A seed is a little package that contains a baby plant and a sack
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lunch, right? Enough food to get it through
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its first week or so of life. If we are exposing that little
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package to temperatures that are warmer than 96°F or 36 Celsius,
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that can actually damage the little plant area that's in
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there. And the minimum temperature on
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your oven is likely closer to like 200 Fahrenheit.
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And even our food dehydrators are generally a lot higher than
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that. If you have one that has a
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digital thermometer that can maintain a temperature below
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that 96°F, then go for it. But anyone that I have ever
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owned has never gone that low. So I would just tell you to
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stick with air drying at this point.
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Now, remember that humidity that I mentioned?
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Yeah, I'm totally familiar with that here.
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Even in the fall when I'm saving the majority of my seeds, the
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humidity can be very, very high, 80% plus on some days.
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That is not conducive to drying seeds fully unless you are
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really running your air conditioning a lot in the house
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and that Nair is just naturally dry.
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So I will use desiccant packets to help finish up the job a
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little bit. I will get the seeds as dry as I
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possibly can and then I will bag them up how I'm going to store
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them. And I will put a couple of
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desiccant packets in with those packages just to make sure that
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I'm pulling any additional moisture out.
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You can also use powdered milk as a desiccant, so just, you
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know, put a couple of tablespoons of powdered milk
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into a piece of cheesecloth or into a tissue or something, and
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you put that into the container with the seeds.
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So that's going to help to draw that moisture out.
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I will leave the desiccant packets in with the seeds till
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later on in the fall after the humidity has given us a little
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bit of a break. And I just double checked those
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seeds to make sure that they're dry before I put them into their
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final little storage place. So how can you test the level of
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your seeds? If we really want to be
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accurate, we need to be a little bit creative.
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There is a good rule of thumb for the different types of
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seeds. So generally speaking, for
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things like beans or peas, if you can press your thumbnail
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against the seed and it doesn't break that skin, that epicarp
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and it doesn't leave a mark, then your seed is dry enough to
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store. Or if you can bite it and there
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is no mark, then the the seed is dry enough to store.
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For things like our curcubits, so cucumbers and squashes, try
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bending the seed. If it's really hard to bend that
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seed or it actually breaks when you bend it, then it is likely
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dry enough to go ahead and store.
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But if it still bends very easily, then it needs more time
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to dry. You can also try to do the same
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thing with like the smaller seeds, like, you know, Peppers
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or even tomato seeds, but you're going to need a little pair of
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tweezers and just kind of use the tweezers to squeeze the seed
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and see if you can make any mark.
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Now again, in most instances, if the seed is dry and brittle, it
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should be fine for storage. But if you've had problems with
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seeds either rotting or sprouting before in storage, or
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if you're a little more scientifically minded like me,
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and you really want to know the moisture level, there is another
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way. But you need to do this test
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before you start drying your seeds.
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And you have to be able to, you know, give up some of those
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seeds that you have have saved in order to run this test.
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I don't do this process in most instances unless I'm dealing
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with a type of seed where I've had germination issues or
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storage issues before. This specifically has happened
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with heirloom watermelon seeds with me.
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So that is one that I will use this technique for.
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It's just also good information to understand, you know, so we
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know what a good dry, ready for storage seed looks and feels
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like. So in order to do this, once you
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have harvested your seeds and you've gotten them completely
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cleaned and you've sort of dried them to the point where you
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think they're ready to store, pick a specific number of the
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seeds. So like 10, right?
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And then weigh them. And you're going to record this
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weight as the fresh weight in a notebook or something, right?
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A lot of times for this, you're going to want a kitchen scale
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that is like a food scale, so one that will measure by grams
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or oz if you have one of those available.
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That makes this very, very easy and it makes it really accurate.
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You don't have to use as many seeds.
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You don't have to sacrifice as many seeds.
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So record the fresh weight and then put those seeds into your
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oven at 265°F or 130°C, and you're going to leave them there
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for an hour. After the hour, allow the seeds
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to cool and then weigh them again.
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This is your dry weight. OK, so we have our fresh weight
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before essentially cooking the seeds in the oven, and then we
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have our dry weight. So now you want to know if this
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dry weight is the correct moisture content for storage.
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So you'll take the fresh weight, you'll subtract the dry weight,
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and then divide that again by the fresh weight and multiply it
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by 100. OK, yes, math.
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So again, take your fresh weight number, subtract the dry weight,
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divide that answer by the fresh weight and then multiply it by
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100 and this is going to give you the moisture percentage of
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your seeds at their fresh weight.
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If this number is between 3 and 7%, boom, you have done your
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job, they are good to go and you can store those seeds.
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But if not, then that means you have to leave those seeds out
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longer to dry them some more. Again, you're just air drying
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them. You're not going to put them in
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that oven, right? Because we're cooking them at
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that point. We're only using the oven to
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test the weight of the seeds. So you can see how this might
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have you running through a lot of seeds.
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So be judicious in terms of how many seeds you have saved versus
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how many you really need for planting next year versus how
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many you can use to run this test.
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But you know, when I do this with the watermelon, there is a
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boatload of seeds in those watermelon.
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I don't necessarily need all of those seeds.
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So I will make that sacrifice. Once I think the watermelon
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seeds are dry enough, I will run this test.
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And if I don't get that 3 to 7%, then I leave them out and let
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them dry longer. And then once I've air dried
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them some more than I take another sample and then I run
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the test again. So let's do a little math here
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and and do an example, right? So if I have my watermelon seeds
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and I weighed out, you know, 10 seeds and they weigh 100 grams
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and then I dry them in the oven and the dry weight is then 95
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grams. Well, I take 100 grams and then
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I subtract the 25 grams and then I divide by the original 100
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grams and multiply by 100. And that gets me 5, which means
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that my watermelon seeds are at 5% moisture level and I am good
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to go. But if my fresh weight was 100
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grams and my dried weight was 50, well, that means that my
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seeds are only at a 50% moisture content and I have a ways to go
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to get them to where they're in storage condition.
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OK, so hopefully that makes a little bit of sense if you've
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gotten the trouble to isolate a variety of heirloom watermelon
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like in my instance, and you know, made sure that you've I've
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saved the seeds and I mean, hey, it's it's worth the extra effort
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to make sure that the moisture content is correct before I go
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to put them in storage because I don't want those babies to mold
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and I don't want them to sprout in storage.
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OK, so another concern about storing our seeds is preventing
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disease in our saved seeds. So healthy seeds make healthy
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plants. Diseased plants can actually
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pass on diseases within the seeds, which then can lead to
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poor quality plants the next season.
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We don't want that. Remember, we're trying to save
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the best and eat the rest. There are bacterial, fungal and
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viral diseases that can all survive and be transferred on
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our seeds. And of course, when that
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happens, then the infection cycle in each planting just
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begins earlier and earlier in the season.
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And then every year of saving and planting those infected
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seeds just promotes the buildup of that disease in our garden.
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The the diseases can be either attached to the outside of the
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seed coat or they can actually be carried inside the seed and
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you would have no idea. So there are two different ways
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that we can prevent passing on the diseases on our seeds and
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that is by treating our seeds with either a bleach solution or
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a hot water treatment before planting.
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So a chlorine bleach treatment can eliminate certain pathogens
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from the surface of the seed. The hot water treatment can
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eliminate or you can just reduce the seed borne fungi and
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bacteria. So it's going to be important
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though, to pay attention to the ratios and the and the
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temperatures and things here because you also don't want to
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damage the seed because of course that's going to make it
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to where it doesn't sprout at all.
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And that completely defeats the purpose, right?
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Just understand that your infected seeds and the
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subsequent infected transplants very rarely show obvious signs
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of being infected, so you really will have 0 idea that you have
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passed that disease on until you've actually got it out in
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the garden and it's way too late.
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So there are. Let's use tomatoes for example,
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right? There are a lot of different
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fungal and bacterial pathogens that infect garden tomatoes.
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A lot of them are just passed on through the wind or soil
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contamination, and that's not really something that we have to
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worry about in our seeds. But there are ones that can be
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passed on by seed. And if you know what the problem
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is in your area and you can learn the signs and you can
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choose healthy fruit from healthy plants, then that is
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your first line of defense. But if you are determined to
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save the seeds and the only plant that you have is very
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clearly diseased or the tomato is diseased and these are, you
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know, prized heirloom tomatoes from your great, great granny's
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garden and you need to save them, we have a couple of
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options. OK, The first one is that bleach
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treatment. And it is very simple and
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straightforward. You just make a solution, one
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part bleach to four parts water, add in a couple drops of the
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dish soap, throw in the seeds into the solution and just allow
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it to sit for about a minute, stirring it occasionally.
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Make sure that you don't over pack.
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You don't want to put too many seeds in it once you want them
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to float freely. And so you because you want all
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of the surface of that entire seed to come in contact with the
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solution. And then once you're done, then
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just pour that solution through a colander, a mesh sieve, some
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cheesecloth, whatever it is to catch all of your seeds and then
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rinse them off really, really good under the running water.
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And then you can dry them thoroughly at this point and
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then store them. OK.
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This bleach seed treatment can be used on any kind of seed.
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So it's going to remove the pathogens from the surface of
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the seed coat, but it is not going to take care of anything
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that is within the seed. So that is where the hot water
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treatment comes in. Now water treatment actually is
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done prior to planting. So with the bleach treatment,
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we're doing that before we dry it completely and put it away in
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storage for the hot water treatment.
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These seeds have already been stored.
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We are bringing them out of storage and we're getting ready
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to plant them, but not all of our seeds are candidates for a
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hot water treatment. We really are looking mostly at
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tomatoes, Peppers and any of our brassicas because there are
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common bacterial and fungal diseases of these really small
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seeded crops that are very easily killed through this hot
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water treatment. It also means that the larger
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seeds too often really can't withstand the higher
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temperatures and actually made it to where they will be
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damaged. The outer seed tissue and this
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will be damaged and so the seed won't germinate.
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So the time and temperature of the hot water treatment is going
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to vary for each seed type. So I'm going to include a link
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to a table on the University of Massachusetts Extension
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vegetable program website that has all of the details on all of
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this, especially if you know, it's, this is a little
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overwhelming because it can be, but it, it gives a step by step.
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It's, it's very simple to do, but you have to be precise.
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So the temperature of the water for treating your seeds is going
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to vary depending on the crop. And the time that you treat it
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is also going to vary anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour.
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Which This is why the larger seeded crops like your beans or
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your zucchinis or your peas and stuff can't really be
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effectively disinfested with a hot water treatment.
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Because again, the temperature that's required to heat that
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whole seed, because remember, we're trying to penetrate
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through the center of the seed, that would kill the outer seed
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tissue, and so the seed just wouldn't germinate.
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But the nightshades and the brassicas are really good
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candidates for this. And essentially all you're going
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to do is you're going to have two different water baths.
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You're going to have one that is heated to 100°F, and then the
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other one is going to be heated to the treatment temperature.
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And you start with that first bath because what you're doing
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is you're preheating the seed so that when you put it into the
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treatment bath, it doesn't drop the temperature of the treatment
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bath. So you want to heat enough water
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to allow the water again to move around those seeds really freely
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and make sure you have a really accurate thermometer because
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it's important that this water is maintained at a uniform
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temperature. And it doesn't go above that
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because we don't want to damage the seeds.
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So you're just going to make a baggie for the seeds out of some
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cheesecloth or, you know, insect netting or screen or whatever,
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and fill the baggie about halfway full of your seeds.
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Again, this is making sure that the water can move throughout
00:19:42
the the little baggie. And then you're going to put
00:19:45
something heavy in the baggie too, like a coin or some other
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weight that's going to keep it down in the water, Preheat them
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in the 100°F bath for about 10 minutes, and then you move it to
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the treatment bath. And again, there's going to be a
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specific temperature and there's also going to be a specific
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time. So if we're looking at this for
00:20:02
tomatoes, the recommended temperature is 122°F and it's
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for 25 minutes. So 10 minutes in the preheating,
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the 100°F, and then 25 minutes in the treatment bath, which is
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120°F. And again, you want to make sure
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it stays at that 122°. It doesn't get too hot, it
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doesn't get too cool. Let it do its thing for that 25
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minutes and then you're going to take them out, pat them dry, let
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them air dry, you know to to room temperature basically
00:20:32
7075°F, whatever. Just dry them out, lay them out
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on a paper towel like you would before you were putting in the
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storage. And at that point your seeds are
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ready to plant. So that should take care of the
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majority of those seed borne illnesses or borne diseases that
00:20:48
your tomato plant or your tomato seeds could carry into your
00:20:51
garden. If you're not sure whether or
00:20:54
not your seeds are going to remain viable, if this makes you
00:20:57
nervous, try a small batch of seeds 1st and then do the
00:21:02
germination test that we talked about in last episode just to
00:21:04
make sure that they are still viable.
00:21:06
But you know, this whole thing is better off being prevented by
00:21:12
just starting with healthy plants to begin with and just
00:21:15
avoiding all of that nonsense. All right, so once we have
00:21:21
collected and dried and possibly treated our seeds, how do we
00:21:26
store them properly to make sure that they stay good for the next
00:21:30
season? Just like almost anything else
00:21:32
out of our gardens that we intend to store for the long
00:21:34
term, our seeds are going to be happiest when they are stored in
00:21:38
a cool, dark and dry plate. So a dark closet in a cooler
00:21:42
part of the house is good if you have a dry, cool basement.
00:21:45
That's a good spot if you have a heated garage.
00:21:47
If you live somewhere where the temperatures get below freezing,
00:21:50
that is also a really good space.
00:21:52
The ideal storage temperature is between 35 and 40 Fahrenheit or
00:21:56
one to four Celsius. We also want a relative humidity
00:21:59
of less than 40%. The drier the better because
00:22:04
once that moisture tries to get back into the seeds, especially
00:22:07
if you don't have them in a, you know, like really secured
00:22:11
container, then that's going to cause them to want to suck up
00:22:15
that moisture and that might cause them to sprout.
00:22:17
So this might make you think that the fridge is actually a
00:22:19
good place to store. And yes, most refrigerators will
00:22:22
hold a temperature of about 40°F, but our fridges also have
00:22:28
a high relative humidity and that temperature is going to
00:22:31
fluctuate with people opening and closing the refrigerator all
00:22:34
day. So unless you have a specific
00:22:35
fridge that is dedicated to your seeds and it's not being opened
00:22:38
all the time, then the fridge is actually not your best option.
00:22:41
Neither is the freezer. You can actually damage the
00:22:44
seeds by temperatures that are too cold for too long.
00:22:48
I mean, this would depend on the temperature of your your
00:22:50
freezer, but you can use the freezer very briefly to kill any
00:22:55
insects or eggs that might be hiding in or on the seed.
00:22:59
So you could do that for a few days and then pull them out of
00:23:02
the freezer and store them elsewhere.
00:23:05
But what are we putting our seeds in?
00:23:07
OK, the general storage area is one thing, but what are we
00:23:11
actually putting them in individually?
00:23:14
This can be as simple and straightforward or as fancy and
00:23:17
creative as you want to be, just like everything else in the
00:23:20
garden. And this goes for the purchased
00:23:23
seeds that you may have leftover at the end of the season.
00:23:27
I absolutely always buy in bulk if I can, and I try to take
00:23:33
advantage of like end of season sales when I do that.
00:23:36
And I certainly am not using all of those seeds in one season.
00:23:39
So I always have a lot of seeds on hand from my suppliers in
00:23:43
addition to the ones that I save.
00:23:45
And knowing how to hold on to those the proper way is really
00:23:49
important. So you can either do just a
00:23:52
simple envelope with the name and the variety and the date
00:23:56
that you collected it written onto the envelope and then put
00:24:00
it inside a plastic sandwich baggie completely sealed up and
00:24:04
then put that into a shoe box. That would be fine.
00:24:07
You could, you know, even take it one step further and you can
00:24:09
put those envelopes into like a plastic container, Tupperware or
00:24:13
Gladware. Or if you have a large amount of
00:24:15
seeds, I have used the like the Rubbermaid totes or tubs.
00:24:20
Those are fine. You can use old spice jars and
00:24:22
make sure those are labeled and then store them in a dark place
00:24:25
so they're not being degraded by the light.
00:24:27
If you can put them in an envelope before you put them in
00:24:29
a spice jar, that's even better. You're blocking the light.
00:24:32
You're also preventing the moisture from getting in there.
00:24:34
CD cases, photo albums that have the large slip pouches in them.
00:24:39
Those are great for storing seeds.
00:24:40
You can have a labeled envelope and then slide it into the
00:24:43
plastic seed sleeve and then you can categorize them by like the
00:24:48
seed type or by season. These are my spring seeds, these
00:24:51
are my summer seeds, whatever. There are also those larger
00:24:55
photo storage boxes that have the individual pull out trays
00:24:59
that fit seed packs beautifully and you can color code them if
00:25:04
you really want to get fancy. And then also those little tool
00:25:08
boxes that have the individual little pull out drawers for
00:25:11
nails and screws. Those are really good for
00:25:13
storing seeds. Craft supply organizers, mobile
00:25:15
file boxes, whatever. You know, just whatever method
00:25:19
you choose, be sure that they're being stored in a cool, dark,
00:25:24
dry place and that you can protect them from rodents.
00:25:28
Mice love dried seeds stored in places that they have access to,
00:25:33
like a basement on a rural farm. Ask me how I know.
00:25:42
And honestly, seed saving can be a little addicting.
00:25:46
Once you get started, you might find yourself with way more
00:25:49
seeds that you know what to do with.
00:25:51
You're going to be giving them away to strangers, you're going
00:25:53
to be going to seed swaps, you're going to be giving them
00:25:54
as gifts. But it's important to know how
00:25:58
long those seeds are viable for before you get too carried away.
00:26:01
Certain seeds are longer lived in storage than others, and so
00:26:06
knowing which one is which is going to help you to plant which
00:26:09
seeds you need to save pretty much every season and which ones
00:26:13
you can save in bulk and just do every few years.
00:26:16
This also helps again, if you're buying in bulk and your seed
00:26:19
supplier is having an end of season sale or they've got an
00:26:22
overrun in the spring. So you know which ones you can
00:26:25
buy in bulk and not use up right away and then you can hang on to
00:26:29
for a while and which ones you do need to use immediately.
00:26:32
So Oregon State University, my alma mater, this is what they
00:26:36
have always said is the, you know, the actual life of our
00:26:39
seeds. Short lived seeds are ones that
00:26:42
you can store for one to two years and that's corn, onions,
00:26:47
leeks, parsley and parsnip. So these you likely need to be
00:26:51
collecting every year or every other year to use for the next
00:26:55
spring. Intermediate seeds, these are
00:26:58
ones that can store for three to four years.
00:27:01
Asparagus, beans, carrots, celery, peas and spinach.
00:27:06
So a little bit longer lifespan on those.
00:27:08
And then our long lived seeds are at least four to five years.
00:27:12
Some of these I know can go even longer than that.
00:27:14
We're looking at beets and Chard, anything in the Brassica
00:27:18
family, the cabbage family. So cauliflower, cabbage,
00:27:20
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, all those fun guys, Turnips,
00:27:23
radishes, cucumbers, and anything else in the curcubit
00:27:27
family. So zucchini, any of our
00:27:28
squashes, and then the nightshades.
00:27:31
Also eggplant, Peppers, tomatoes, plus our lettuces, and
00:27:36
then our Musk melons and our cantaloupe and our watermelon.
00:27:39
Those all can be stored for, like I said, at least for five
00:27:43
years. Some of them I have stored for
00:27:45
even longer than that. I will say that if you have
00:27:49
seeds that have gone beyond about that 4:00 to 5:00 mark and
00:27:53
you are questioning how well they are going to germinate for
00:27:57
you again, do that germination test that we talked about last
00:28:00
week. And if you see that your
00:28:02
germination percentage is less than 50%, then just double up on
00:28:05
the number of seeds that you plant.
00:28:07
And that is usually how I sort of get around it if I realize
00:28:10
too late that my seeds have likely expired and maybe I don't
00:28:14
have anything to replace them with.
00:28:17
So that's pretty much what you need to know about accurately
00:28:20
saving seeds and storing them properly.
00:28:23
Between last week's episode and this one, you are now fully
00:28:27
equipped to save seeds from your own garden that you can rely on
00:28:31
next season to produce new plants and new healthy fruit.
00:28:35
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
00:28:37
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.
00:28:41
Thanks for listening to another episode of the Just Grow
00:28:43
Something podcast. For more information about
00:28:45
today's topic and to find all the ways you can get in touch
00:28:48
with me or support the show, go to justgrowsomethingpodcast.com.
00:28:53
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep learning and keep
00:28:55
growing.