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If you’ve ever gone into a Facebook gardening group and asked, “When am I supposed to plant this?” and then gotten ten different answers, you are not alone.
And if you’ve ever started seeds too early, ended up with giant leggy plants taking over your house, and then still got hit with a late cold snap? Also not alone.
Today on Just Grow Something we’re going to make garden timing feel simple, flexible, and predictable.
I’m going to show you how to build a planting calendar using frost dates as your starting point, then layering in:
• cool-season versus warm-season timing,
• how many weeks to start seeds indoors,
• a buffer for weather variability,
• and how to plan your fall garden by counting backward from your first frost.
This is one of those “once you understand it, you can reuse it forever” skills.
Let's dig in.
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Have you ever gone into a Facebook gardening group and
00:00:03
asked when you're supposed to plant something and then gotten
00:00:05
10 different answers? Yeah, you are not alone.
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And if you've ever started seeds too early and ended up with
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giant leggy plants taking over your house, you are also not
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alone. Today we are going to make
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garden timing feel a little bit more simple and flexible and
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predictable. I'm going to show you how to
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build a planting calendar using your frost states as your
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starting point and then layering in cool season versus warm
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season timing, How many weeks to start seeds indoors ahead of
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time, a buffer for weather variability, and how to plan
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your fall garden by counting backward from your first frost
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date. And yes, you can absolutely be
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planning your fall garden now. This is one of those skills
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that, once you understand it, you can reuse over and over and
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over again. Welcome back to Just Grow
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Something. I'm Karen Velez, specialty crop
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farmer and garden educator. This show is here to make
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gardening feel straightforward, grounded in good science,
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explained in plain language, and focused on results that you can
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actually see in your garden. Each week you get practical
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tools for growing and troubleshooting and improving so
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you can spend less time guessing and more time harvesting.
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Let's dig in. So if you've been following
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along with these garden planning episodes all month, you know the
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theme planning is not just a map.
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It is actually a set of decisions that makes your season
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easier. And timing is one of the biggest
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decisions because a great garden plan on paper can still fall
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apart if our timing is off. So today we're going to build a
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calendar that you can actually use.
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It's based on your frost dates and your planting windows.
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And we're going to start with the foundations, and that is
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your frost date. So when people say is like my
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last frost date is April 15th, what they usually mean is an
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average date. This is based on historical
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weather data. This does not mean that it can't
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freeze after that date. It means the possibility of
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freezing temperatures drops as you move later into spring.
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And then of course, it increases as you move into fall.
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So the National Weather Service and NOAA both publish frost
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freeze climatology to show that these, you know, are patterns
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and that what their averages are by location.
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So you know your frost date is an anchor point for decision
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making, but it's not like a full blown promise from the universe
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that you're going to be a totally safe.
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OK, A good planting calendar builds in a little bit of
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flexibility. So in this episode I'm going to
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show you or give you a system that works even when the weather
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doesn't cooperate because we all know the weather never fully
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cooperates. Most gardeners start by figuring
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out their 2 anchor dates. This is your average last spring
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frost and your average first fall frost, right?
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So frost and freeze are sometimes used interchangeably.
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They're not always the same thing.
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A freeze is typically what we talk about when we say, you
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know, 32°F or 0 Celsius or lower.
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Frost can actually form even when the air temperature is
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slightly above freezing, depending on what the conditions
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are near the ground. So a lot of the National Weather
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Service offices are going to publish those frost or freeze
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climatology tables and explain that your local conditions like
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your wind and your clouds and your moisture and terrain can
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shift what happens in your yard. So try to follow information
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from like either your local National Weather Service office
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or your local extension services and write down what is your,
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your last average spring frost date and your first average
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frost date, OK, And then to use these frost anchors, right,
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you're going to use your average frost dates as your planning
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date and then one to two weeks after your average last frost
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for your warm season transplants.
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That is your safety date, especially if your site is very
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cold or exposed. OK.
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This gives us a little bit of a buffer to make sure, number one,
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that we're not relying on that hard.
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And that date is a hard and fast rule because we know it's
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actually only about 30% accurate or something like that.
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But also it gives your soil a chance to warm up too.
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OK? So plan by that average last
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frost date in the spring and then use that, you know, for
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your warm season crops, a date that's about two weeks after
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that date as your sort of safety date.
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OK, So in order to use these dates properly, we want to go
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ahead and sort our crops into cool season and warm season
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buckets because obviously these crops thrive in different
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temperature ranges and they tolerate different risks.
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Your cool season crops are those things that do tolerate those
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cool conditions and a lot of them can handle light frost.
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You know, peas, leafy greens, radishes, a lot of your
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brassicas, you know, this can depend on your timing and in
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your region, but a lot of these guys can absolutely handle a
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light frost. So this is important in both the
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spring and the fall for planning purposes.
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Those warm season crops, these are things that are cold
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sensitive and they generally need to go out well after that
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frost risk drops and that soil starts to warm.
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So tomatoes, Peppers, cucumbers, squash, a lot of our bean
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varieties, some beans can handle those cooler temperatures, but
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the cooler soil temperatures, but they definitely don't like
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the frost in terms of air temperature.
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Basil, same thing. OK, so these are the ones that
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we want to put in the ground after that safety date.
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So I generally wait at least two weeks after your average last
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frost to plan for these to go out into the ground.
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Here's where the timing then becomes less overwhelming.
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OK, A lot of gardeners still try to find like the perfect
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planting date. But really what we want to look
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at is ranges, windows where planting is likely to succeed
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because again, the weather varies from year to year.
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So instead of saying, you know, I'm going to plant carrots on
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April 10th, you want to say I'm going to plant carrots between,
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you know, April 10th and April 15th or April 5th and April
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20th, whatever. OK.
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A good example of this is Iowa State University Extension has a
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Vegetable Planting and Harmony Wasting Time handout which
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provides date ranges like when you can sow or transplant a lot
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of crops successfully and it says in there that some crops
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can be planted in succession within those windows.
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Missouri University Extension Service also has a similar map
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and dates in their planting guide that are specific to
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Missouri. Your local extension likely has
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a resource like this too. So look for that as a shortcut
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to your planning, right? So find something that you can
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use as a planting guide for your area and use that as your window
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reference for your planning. You can absolutely look at
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multiple sources, but pick one primary guide so that you don't
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get, you know, paralyzed by, you know, decision fatigue, right?
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If you can't find a guide for your region, then you're going
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to have to rely on those frost States and then maybe build
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yourself a little bit of wiggle room in there.
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So then now the part that everyone wants to know is, OK,
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when do I start my seeds indoors, right?
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And this is always a matter of math and it's the the most
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reliable method that I have come up with.
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The first thing is to identify the outdoor transplant date
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window for that crop based on your frost risk and your soil
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warmth, OK. And then find the recommended
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indoor lead time. So most seed packets and
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catalogs are going to say on there, you know, start indoors 6
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to 8 weeks before transplanting or you know, start indoors 8 to
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10 weeks before last frost. Use that recommendation, OK.
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These seed growers, these these plant scientists are, have been
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doing this for a very, very long time.
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And so take the recommendations that they use in your calendar
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or in your catalog descriptions and then count backwards on the
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calendar, OK? So figure out the outdoor, the
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ideal outdoor transplant date window for that crop.
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Take that indoor lead time and count backwards on the calendar,
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OK? Now when you count backwards,
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you also need to account for germination variability and
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hardening off. And these are the two pieces
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that I think most people forget. So some seeds sprout really
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quickly and some seeds take forever.
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You have to add that into your calendar as you're counting
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back. So if you're doing tomatoes, for
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example, and it says, okay, six weeks indoors before
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transplanting, all right, well, that means you're growing them
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on for six weeks. How long does it take for those,
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those, those tomato seeds to germinate?
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I think on general, I think that it's like 5 days is an average.
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It might say 5 to 10 days. So, you know, choose your window
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there. If you want to do 10 days just
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to hedge your bets, then great. You're adding ten days.
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And then how long does it take to harden off those plants
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before you put them outside? Typically you're going to take a
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week to 10 days of transition time before planting out.
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So now you have just added anywhere from 12 to 20 days to
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the recommended indoor lead time, right?
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That's a big difference. So you're indoor outdoor, you
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know, start calculation basically becomes you take your
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outdoor plant out, date you back it up by the number of weeks
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indoors and you add a small buffer there for the
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germination. And let's be honest, life
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happens, right? And then back it up a little bit
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even more for that hardening off time.
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And now you know when you're supposed to start those seats
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seeds. OK, so if you want to
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transplant, transplant tomatoes around your safety date, which
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is about that one to two weeks after your average last frost
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date, and they need 6 to 8 weeks indoors plus about a week to
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harden off, then you're starting your seeds about 7 to 9 weeks
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before your plant out week. That's it.
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That's the math. OK.
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We used a window and a safety date.
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Not a single day. Now on your calendar, it might
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be represented by a single day and then you just have to decide
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what that means. So for me, I put my crops on the
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calendar on the Sunday of the week that I want to plant them
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out. That tells me that sometime
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starting that week, it's safe to plant out that crop, and I
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generally need to have it planted within a about a 10 day
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window, sometimes up to 14 days, right?
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But this window gives me the flexibility to act according to
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what the seedlings look like, whether they've been properly
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hardened off yet, what the outdoor temperatures are or the
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soil temperatures are, and what my schedule looks like.
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It's a lot less stressful than looking at a specific date on a
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calendar as the do or die day for that crop.
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OK, so now I want to simplify your whole calendar into 3
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timing buckets, right? The first one is as soon as the
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soil can be worked right? Some crops go in when the soil
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is workable and the conditions are appropriate and using this,
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this is the the cool season direct seeded crops.
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You will see this concept over and over again in regional
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planting guides and extension resources.
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The idea that some crops can be planted very early based on
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their soil conditions and their crop tolerance.
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Now, if you're not sure what that phrase means, as soon as
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the soil can be worked, it basically is the condition of
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the soil when it's not too wet, it's not too dry, and it's not
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too cold for those early crops. So usually for us here in the
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spring, it's that wetness that we're concerned about.
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So the soil should be damp enough to be crumbly, but not
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dusty and not so wet that it sticks together in a mass,
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right? And then our soil temperature
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should be conducive to planting. This date is obviously going to
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vary from region to region, and that's why it's a general
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concept and not a hard and fast date on the calendar.
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OK, so that's bucket #1 as soon as the soil can be worked,
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bucket number 2 is around the last frost date.
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So this is where a lot of cool season transplants and those mid
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spring plantings like direct seedings land.
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The soil should still be workable with this bucket,
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right? But the underlying timing is
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aimed more at the air and the soil temperatures rather than
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the workability of the soil. So you will see, you know, the
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the seed starting recommendations for a lot of
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your Brassica saying start 6 to 8 weeks prior to the last frost
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with the understanding that that's around the time that
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you're going to actually be planting them is around that
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last frost window. OK.
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And then bucket #3 would be after your last frost plus when
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the soil warms, OK, this is your warm season crop bucket and not
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as much attention is paid to the second part of that the soil
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temperatures. And I find that to be
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unfortunate. You may be beyond your last
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frost date, but that doesn't mean that the soil temperatures
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have warmed up enough to be conducive for net growth on
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those warm season crops. So this is one place where you
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definitely want to give yourself a buffer so you can wait until
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those conditions are ideal. Because just because it's been
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warm and sunny outside and 50° does not mean that the soil
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temperature has warmed up significantly.
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And then let's talk about the fall garden because this is
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where the counting backward method really does shine.
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And this involves counting backward from your first frost
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date in the fall and using those days to maturity to determine
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the last feasible planting date for your crops.
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So the basic fall planning formula is your first frost date
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minus the number of days to maturity, minus the number of
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days for those plants to germinate.
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And then you also want to give yourself a buffer, right?
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Usually this is about a week or two, sometimes even more.
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And why is that extra buffer in the fall important?
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Because growth slows in the fall as the temperatures start to
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cool and that day link shortens. So that fall timing is much
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tighter than it is in the spring.
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So we want to add that one or two weeks of a buffer or
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sometimes even more based on that fall slow down, right?
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So in the fall, we're going to look up the days to maturity on
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the seed packet. And then we're going to count
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backwards from the first frost date.
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And then we're going to add that germination time.
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And then at least a week or two of buffer, I tend to lead
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towards 2, sometimes 3. What this also does too is if
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you are in an area where your summer stays pretty hot up until
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like the last possible moment, you might need the flexibility
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of waiting to put those plants in the ground because the soil
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is still too hot or the temperatures are still too hot,
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right? So I like to add like 3 weeks of
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a buffer just to give myself some room to play with.
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And I will say, doing the fall plan at the same time that we
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are adding all of our spring and summer planting days to the
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calendar makes fall gardening feel 10 times more doable.
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Because it doesn't require any additional thinking in the
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middle of the summer when you've already got all the other garden
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tasks to do and you're also not scrambling to figure out whether
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or not you have the seeds for your fall planting.
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So if you're thinking of a fall garden, put those dates on the
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calendar now now and put those crops on your list.
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So not only do you know that you have enough seeds to be able to
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do that fall planting, but then the only decision you have to
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make later is whether or not you actually feel like doing it or
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not. Now let's talk about the real
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life reasons that timing sometimes goes sideways and how
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to plan for them. The first reality check is that
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microclimates are a real thing. So if you are in a low spot or
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you're near a wind break or pavement, or you know your
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garden is tucked in against a building, your frost behavior
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may be different from the official average.
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So, you know, frost timing varies across regions and, you
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know, local weather stations and local variables are going to
00:16:51
influence that sort of frost freeze outcome.
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I have areas on the farm that are slightly lower in elevation
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than the rest of them, and those two fields always frost before
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my other areas. And our farm has often been in a
00:17:07
pocket that tends to run ever so slightly warmer than the
00:17:12
surrounding areas, so we often see our first fall frost later
00:17:16
than some of our neighbors. So if you know that your yard
00:17:19
runs cold, then your safety date should be more conservative and
00:17:24
vice versa. Reality check number 2 is days
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to maturity are just an estimate.
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OK, it's useful, but it's not a stopwatch.
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You've got so many different things that are going to
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influence the growth rate, the temperature, the amount of water
00:17:40
available, seasonal differences, right?
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This matters even more so in the early spring because we might
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see a bunch of slow starts to the growing season, and again in
00:17:50
the fall because we're going to start slowing down then, right?
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So use those days to maturity as a planning tool, but then you
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might need to adjust just based on what you're observing.
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And this is also a really good use for your garden journal
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because this helps you know what those adjustments need to be
00:18:08
from year to year. And reality check #3 is that
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soil temperature matters. OK, Much more so for direct
00:18:18
seeding than transplanting, But it also, you know, effects our
00:18:21
transplants as well. So some seeds just won't
00:18:24
germinate well in cold soil, even if the air temperature
00:18:27
feels downright spring like. So that's why we focus on
00:18:30
planting windows and more crop specific timing rather than just
00:18:35
one universal date. So if you plant and nothing
00:18:38
happens, it might not be, it might be the soil temperature.
00:18:42
This also can happen with our transplants where we put them in
00:18:45
the soil and we transplant them at the time where we think the
00:18:48
air temperatures are conducive, but the soil temperature hasn't
00:18:51
warmed up enough. And so those plants just end up
00:18:53
sitting there because the soil is too cold for those roots to
00:18:57
really be able to do anything. So I highly recommend investing
00:19:01
in an inexpensive soil thermometer that so you can test
00:19:05
the soil before planting so you're not wasting your time and
00:19:10
possibly seeds or plants by getting them in the ground too
00:19:13
early. So let's put this all together.
00:19:15
We're going to create a minimum viable calendar, right?
00:19:18
Write your two anchor dates, your last frost date and your
00:19:21
first frost date, and then figure out what your warm season
00:19:25
safety date is. For me, that's going to be two
00:19:27
weeks after the last anticipated frost in the spring.
00:19:31
And then for each one of your crops, decide is it direct
00:19:33
seeded or it is a transplant, whether it's cool season or warm
00:19:36
season. And then figure out the planting
00:19:39
window range from either your extension guide or just look up
00:19:43
the general guidance for that crop in terms of frost states.
00:19:47
For your transplanted crops, now you want to count backwards from
00:19:49
that date for maybe your seed starting time.
00:19:52
And then for your fall crops, you want to count backwards from
00:19:55
the first frost so that you know when to plant.
00:19:58
Just those five things gives you an absolutely working calendar
00:20:03
that you can go off of. OK, this calendar building
00:20:06
method that we're doing, the anchor dates, the count back
00:20:08
timing, the crop windows, the buffer system is the exact same
00:20:12
process that I walk students through step by step inside my
00:20:15
plan like a pro course. So the course basically turns
00:20:18
this into a repeatable workflow. So you are not reinventing the
00:20:22
wheel every, every January, right?
00:20:24
This is absolutely a skill that you.
00:20:28
Can systemize. So some of the biggest mistakes
00:20:31
that we see would be starting seeds too early.
00:20:34
You know, just because it feels like it's time to start seeds
00:20:37
right. I see this a lot in Facebook
00:20:39
groups like OK, it's March and this person started their tomato
00:20:43
seeds in December because they felt like it was time to do
00:20:48
something and they wanted to get an early start on the season.
00:20:50
And I'm using air bunnies here for that early start thing
00:20:53
because they may not be able to get their plants in the ground
00:20:55
until mid-May and now they have overgrown plants, right?
00:20:58
So start from that outdoor, you know, date window and count
00:21:02
backwards so that you know when it's time to actually start your
00:21:05
seeds. Starting a little bit ahead
00:21:07
isn't usually going to be a problem.
00:21:09
For some crops, it might be though, right?
00:21:11
Tomatoes, that's usually fairly easy to remedy because you can
00:21:14
just bury them super deep. But that's not the same case for
00:21:17
things like brassicas. And if you start to get really
00:21:19
leggy broccoli, it likely isn't going to grow for you.
00:21:22
OK, so use the calendar for your seed starting dates.
00:21:26
Don't treat the last frost date like a guarantee, OK?
00:21:30
Use it as a planning date and figure out that safety date so
00:21:33
that we end up with a planting window of time because we don't
00:21:37
want to, you know, jump too early and get those warm season
00:21:43
crops in the ground and all of a sudden get hit with a late frost
00:21:47
because we were just so anxious to get things in the ground.
00:21:49
And I get it. You know, everybody gets really
00:21:52
anxious to get things going and started in the spring.
00:21:55
And that's why it's really important to have a calendar in
00:21:57
front of you so that you know, Nope, don't get ahead of
00:22:00
yourself. It might feel warm out, but
00:22:03
we're not there yet. OK.
00:22:05
And then don't forget that fall planning exists, right?
00:22:09
Again, right now is a really good time to do that because
00:22:11
you're not feeling overwhelmed by everything else.
00:22:13
You have the time to be able to be maybe a little ambitious for
00:22:17
your fall planning and then when you get to the late summer, it's
00:22:19
time to start doing it. You don't have to think so much
00:22:22
about it. You can just make the decision,
00:22:24
you know what, I am going to follow through with this plan
00:22:26
and I'm going to plant all of these things.
00:22:28
Or you can go, you know what, I'm a little exhausted right
00:22:31
now. I'm only going to do half this.
00:22:32
I honestly didn't even do my fall garden last year, right?
00:22:35
I had it all planned out, but we had a whole bunch of other
00:22:38
things going on and we were planning on leaving town.
00:22:40
And I thought, you know what, I'm not going to do it this
00:22:42
year. And we didn't.
00:22:43
But I was able to make that decision as an informed
00:22:46
decision. OK, so when you're doing this,
00:22:48
count backward from that first frost, add a buffer for that
00:22:52
slower fall growth, and then decide in the late summer if you
00:22:54
want to follow through. Do the work now so the decision
00:22:57
is easier later. And then, you know, one other
00:23:01
mistake that I see is trying to schedule every crop perfectly in
00:23:06
January. And I think I probably fall
00:23:09
victim to this most frequently because I do.
00:23:11
I really sit down and I try to plan everything out for the
00:23:14
entire year because it just makes sense for me the rest of
00:23:19
the year to just be able to move through it without having to
00:23:22
think. But if the idea of sitting down
00:23:25
and planning like that is overwhelming to you, then build
00:23:28
that minimum viable calendar for just your core crops first and
00:23:32
then you can refine it later as you see what the weather was
00:23:36
doing and what life is handing to you.
00:23:39
OK, so let's recap this method really quick.
00:23:41
Identify your last frost date in the spring and your first frost
00:23:46
date in the fall and create that sort of warm season safety date,
00:23:50
which should be about two weeks after your last frost.
00:23:53
Then split your crops into cool season and warm season and then
00:23:58
use planting windows, so date ranges, not single dates to
00:24:03
figure out when you are going to plant those.
00:24:06
For seed starting, we want to count backwards from our plant
00:24:09
out date window, including those hardening often germination
00:24:12
dates plus a little bit of a buffer, right?
00:24:14
And then for fall, we want to count backwards from that first
00:24:16
frost using the days to maturity and our germination, and also a
00:24:20
little bit of a buffer. OK, if this episode made timing
00:24:25
feel clearer, then go build your minimum viable calendar this
00:24:29
week, even if it's messy, even if it's just your top three
00:24:32
crops, OK, Because once you have anchor dates and accounting back
00:24:37
method, your whole garden plan becomes a little bit easier
00:24:40
because now you know seed starting and succession planting
00:24:43
and fall harvest, all of it. And if you want me to walk you
00:24:46
through this entire planning process in a structured step by
00:24:50
step way with videos and downloads, the mapping method,
00:24:54
the calendar system, all of these things, then I want you to
00:24:57
enroll in my plan like a pro course.
00:24:59
It is designed to take you from. I don't know when to start or
00:25:03
where to put anything to. I have a complete plan and a
00:25:06
calendar that I can follow. OK, It uses all of the concepts
00:25:10
that we have been covering in this January planning series.
00:25:13
So you can register by using the link in the show notes or by
00:25:16
going to justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/plan.
00:25:21
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
00:25:23
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.